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The Mayan Ruins of
Copan...Honduras
The
Mayan Ruins of Copan, located in
the
mountains of western Honduras near the Guatemalan border
are the de-facto reason to visit
Western Honduras. At the very minimum this
should be an overnight trip with most travelers departing
from San Pedro Sula, about a four-hour drive from San Pedro
Sula. A must see if you come to
Honduras.
The ancient city of
Copan thrived until A.D. 822 and produced some of the most
skillful stone carvers of the Maya world. The master
craftsmen are gone, but the deserted ruins remain as a
testament to their work. Copan is still relatively
unspoiled--a delight for travelers who want marvels without
the marveling crowds.
Meticulously
maintained and more prominent than a skyscraper, the Mayan
ruins at Copan are a superb memorial to a once powerful
kingdom. To really appreciate Copan, it is a good idea to
read all about it before you arrive.
In the land known
today as HONDURAS, the Maya-Toltec culture was born 3,000
years ago before Christ, while Europe was still considered
a land of barbarians. Scientists consider the Maya-Toltec
civilization to have become the most developed indigenous
culture in the world. Without a doubt, it was the most
advanced in Middle America. Copan's pyramids temples and
stone monuments justify this claim. They are located in the
northwestern zone of Honduran territory, near the border
with Guatemala. At Copan, Mayan structures date back to at
least 1,000 years B.C.
You have to walk more than
200 m of steamy tropical-forest trails before reaching
Copan's Great Plaza, where the city's main acropolis rises
some 30 m toward the sky. The tallest structure in sight is
the Hieroglyphic Stairway, a monument that
chronicles the achievements of 15 kings with more than
1,500 elaborately carved glyphs. Many of the other ruined
buildings and monuments are undisturbed, wrapped tightly by
the thick roots of ancient ceiba and cedar trees. Beyond
the main plaza is a lush park with hiking trails.
The park has four basic areas of
interest:
The Ball Court, considered the social center of the
city. This park is by far the most artistic ball court in
Meso-America. Unique to it are the markers on the side
walls, resembling macaw heads. The final work done on this
ball court goes back to the days of ruler 18
Rabbit.
The Great Plaza. Famous for its stelae and altars
that are scattered around this immense plaza. Most of the
stelaes that are standing today were erected during the
times of the 13th ruler, known as 18 Rabbit between the
years 711 and 736. Many of the altars have a zoomorphic
form.
The Hieroglyphic Stairway. This unique temple holds
the longest known text left to us by the ancient Maya
civilization. It was erected by ruler number 15, known as
Smoke-Shell and is believed to be a lineage tree, recording
the ascension and death of all Copan rulers from Yax-Kuk-Mo
to Smoke-Shell. The 5 portraits located in the stairway
represent five successors to the dynasty. Unfortunately,
the glyphs can not be read because the steps had all fallen
out of place. Archaeologists rebuilt the temple, but had no
way of knowing where each piece belonged. Today, this
magnificent temple has an enormous tarp covering it to
protect the steps from further erosion, which has
unfortunately already damaged a great part of the
glyphs.
The Acropolis. The acropolis is divided in two big
plazas: the west court and the east court. The west court
houses temple 11 and temple 16 with the unique altar Q set
at its base. Temple 11 was built during the reign of Yax-
Pac, and is his most significant architectural contribution
to Copan. This very elaborate temple was meant to be his
portal to the other world. Altar Q has now been
completely 'read' and depicts each (16) of the members of
the Copan Dynasty, including Yax-Pac, seated on their own
glyph. In it, the founder of the dynasty Yax-Kuk-Mo is
passing the scepter of power directly to Yax-Pac.
The nearest town
is Cobán Ruinas.
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Getting there. The main
airport serving the Copan area is the San Pedro Sula
International Airport. Serviced regularly by LACSA, TACA,
COPA, American, Continental, Mayan World Airways, Isleña
and Iberia. San Pedro Sula is easily reached from the
following North American gateways: Miami, Houston, New
Orleans, New York, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Orlando,
Mexico City and Cancun. In addition, there are excellent
connections via the Central American Airlines through San
Jose, Costa Rica; San Salvador, El Salvador; Panama City,
Panama and Guatemala City, Guatemala. Once in San Pedro
Sula, your best bet is to purchase a tour package through
one of the Honduran tour operators in San Pedro or taking
advantage of fairly good direct us service that operates
regularly. For updated information , please check our bus
schedule routes from San Pedro Sula located in the Bus
transportation section of our guide. From Guatemala City,
you may fly directly to Copan Ruinas. The flight is a very
scenic tour over the Guatemalan countryside. Overland from
Guatemala City will take you about 7 to 8 hours to traverse
the 230km between Guatemala City and Copan Ruinas. You must
first get to Chiquimula, from there take a bus to the Vado
Hondo detour, and finally get to the Florido border. Please
note that the border is open daily from 7:00 am to 6 p.m.
only! Copan is located only 12km from the border.
The local currency is the
lempira, which has an exchange rate at time of print of
approximately L.13.50 to US 1.00. It is difficult to
exchange currency other than US dollars and travelers
checks. In Copan Ruinas you can exchange Guatemalan
quetzales for lempiras, however the going exchange rate is
normally about Q1.00 for L.2.00 making it an unfavorable
rate.
Their are now two banks in
Copan, the Banco de Occidente, is open Monday through
Friday from 8:00 to 12:00 and 14:00 to 17:00 hrs. On
Saturday it is open from 8:00 to 12:00 hrs. Amongst other
services, you can exchange US Dollars, Guatemalan Quetzales
and Salvadoran Colones, as well as getting cash advances
from your Visa or Mastercard credit cards. The new Banco
Atlantida office is also located within the main square,
operates with the same schedule as the Banco de Occidente
and offers cash advances on your VISA
card.
Tap water is generally unsafe to drink in all of
Honduras and Copan is no exception. Most of the better
restaurants and hotels treat their water, making it safe
for you to drink. Purified water can be purchased at
different places throughout town. Another safe alternative
is to stick to bottled soft drinks or
beer.
Telephone and fax . Hondutel, the local telephone
company is located one block from the main park. They have
just changed their location. Check our map of town to
locate them. Open from 8:00 to 21:00 hrs. daily.
E mail. In the
last six months, several establishments offering Internet
access and e mail service has opened. Although not really
full fledged Internet café s, The service is good and
reliable. The following businesses offer the service:
Ixbalanque Spanish School, Hotel Los Gemelos and Copan
Net.
The mail office is
located just next to Hondutel.
Washing your clothes in Copan. An everyday problem
for the long time traveler is where to get his clothes
washed. There is a perfect place to do so in Copan:
Lavanderia Justo a Tiempo. This laundromat service allows
you to drop your clothes off in the morning, go to the
ruins, take a tour or going about your business, and return
in the afternoon to pick your clean clothes up. Service
includes washing, drying and folding of your clothes! There
is also a book exchange service available at the
laundromat.
For those of you who find that
your Spanish is not up to par, there is the possibility of
taking advantage of your stay in Copan to do something
about it. The Ixbalanque Spanish School offers you
the unique opportunity to learn Spanish with a one to one
teacher to student ratio, and at the same time experience
Central America by living with one of the local Copanecan
families.
Immigration offices in Copan are located within the
City Hall building, just across the street from the main
park. Open Monday through Friday from 7:00 to 4:30 every
local immigration procedure can be done from this office.
The dry season, or verano in Copan
is from December through April inclusive, with March and
April being the hottest and driest months. The rainy season
or invierno is from May through November and
the wettest months are August and
September.
A word of caution: Hondurans, and Copanecans in
particular love to celebrate any event, and do so often
with the use of firecrackers, which of course, the louder
the merrier. They celebrate with total disregard to the
time of the day, and seem to prefer the wee hours of the
morning. Many a tourist has hid under his bed thinking a
revolution has just started outside of his room! Fear not,
it is only someone having a good time and the only harm
that will come to you will be the loss of some of your
precious sleeping time!
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