Roatan, the largest of the 70-island chain, is the most populated, with 30,000 residents, and the most developed. It is where you’ll find the most dive resorts and creature comforts. Guanaja, next in size, is surrounded by its own barrier reef. Third in size, and a newcomer to this “dedicated-dive-resort” group, is Utila. The Cayos Cochinos, a mini-cluster of small fishing-village islands boasts one dive resort on their biggest island, Cochino Grande.

The smaller islands are uninhabited or sparsely populated. Most do not have roads. Phones, faxes and e-mail are newcomers. Surrounding reefs are impressive, with brilliantly colored sponges and corals, towering pinnacles, walls, tunnels, wrecks and caves. Visibility and water clarity are superb. Big turtles, grouper, rays, eels, and pelagics proliferate despite an active fishing industry. And snorkelers discover their own special paradise in the small patch reefs that dot the shallow bays throughout the area.

And, while everyone in the Bay Islands speaks “dive” fluently, the predominant language is English. On the mainland, however, Spanish is spoken. Plan on an entire day to reach the Bay Islands from the US. The islands are close to Honduras’ coastline, but the mainland airport at San Pedro Sula is 160 miles away. Some flights depart La Ceiba, which is closer. Connections are often erratic. Luggage sometimes arrives late. Sand fleas and no- see-ums are a nuisance and make their presence known as soon as you arrive. Apply repellent beforehand.

History

Evidence from shreds of pottery and pre- Columbian remains indicate the early presence of Lanca, Maya and Payan Indians on the Bay Islands. Columbus is credited with their latter-day discovery in 1502.

During the early 1500’s, the Spaniards, in their manic quest for gold and precious gems, brutally attacked and enslaved the Bay Island Indians. Finally, during the mid-1500’s, the Indians revolted. One chief, Lempira, put up such a fierce offensive, it took thousands of Spanish troops to kill him. Lempira has since been declared a national hero and the currency of Honduras is named for him.

Following that conquest, word of Spanish treasure ships lured pirates from Jamaica and the Caymans to set up a base at Port Royal, Roatan. Tales of jewels and stashed treasures hidden on the island abound.

Best Dive and Snorkeling Sites

Roatan
West End Wall, which encompasses Peter’s Place and Herbie’s Place, is great for diving and snorkeling. The reef starts at the shore and extends out 20 yds, where the wall drops off sharply from a ledge at 15 ft. Visibility often exceeds 100 ft. Fishlife is superb, with schools of horse-eye jacks, permits, and schoolmaster. Seas are calm, with an occasional light current. No spearfishing.
 

Guanaja
The Bayman Drop and Pinnacle are wall dives off the north shore. The top of the wall is between 10 and 40 ft. The Pinnacle rises from 135 to 50 ft at the top, where you’ll find large barrel sponges, azure vase sponges, gorgonia and black coral. Do not enter the crack at 70 ft. Large black coral trees are found at 80 ft. Good for diving and snorkeling. No collecting or spearfishing.

Pavilions is a series of blind tunnels, pillar corals and outcroppings between 30 and 60 ft. Soft corals and sponges dominate the shallows. Beware of the fire coral which seems hotter here than other parts of the Caribbean. The site is off Michael’s Rock around the point next to the Bayman Bay Club. Good for diving and snorkeling.

Waterfall Reef, the site of a huge black coral tree growing off the wall at 45 ft (top of the dive is five ft), takes its name from a series of overhangs with soft bushy corals which appear to cascade down the slope. Numerous anemones, big vase sponges and lots of fish make Waterfall a photographers’ favorite. Good visibility.

Jader Trader is a 200-ft wreck lying on its right side at 90 ft off the southwest side of Guanaja. Big morays, schools of silversides, turtles and barracuda are in residence. Seas average two to four ft with a light current. Always good visibility. For experienced divers.

Additional dives along Guanaja’s barrier reef are Eel’s Garden off the Bayman Bay Club shore, Black Rock Canyons, a maze of tunnels and canyons, Jim’s Silverlode, a sheer wall off southwest cay with huge sponges and soft corals. The Cut branches out into caverns and tunnels.

Cayos Cochinos
Cayos Cochinos are a group of 13 small islands deemed a Biological Reserve and managed, in part, by the Smithsonian Institution to conduct a scientific study of the reef. The park is patrolled by park rangers. Diving and snorkeling from the shore or by boat is outstanding.
 

Utila
Utila, fringed by yet-unnamed virgin reefs, caves and canyons, offers some of the best shore diving and snorkeling in the Caribbean. Wildlife is exceptional, with turtles, eagle rays, southern sting rays and tropicals. Offshore sites are a 15-45-minute boat ride. The shore dives lie about 150 yds out.
 

Barbaretta
Barbaretta Wall off Barbaretta island, a favorite snorkeling- picnic spot between Guanaja and Roatan, is a wonderland of barrel sponges and soft corals. The wall stretches for a mile.

Pigeon Cays
Pigeon Cays are a small cluster of islands surrounded by shallow protected reefs, all perfect for snorkeling.

Live-Aboard

The Bay Islands Aggressor is a seven-cabin, 18- passenger, air-conditioned luxury yacht that visits all the best dive sights off the Bay Islands. A week stay costs $1,295 per person. Pick-up is from Roatan. % (800) 348-2628 or write to PO Drawer K, Morgan City, LA 70381. E-mail: divboat@aol.com. Web site: www.aggressor.com.

Sightseeing and Other Activities

Some resorts offer water-taxi service or have kayaks for getting around the bays. The main après-dive activities are fishing, bird watching, and hiking.

Facts

Nearest Recompression Chamber: Roatan. Bay Islands Air evacuation is possible from some other areas.

Getting There: The best days to travel are Friday and Saturday. Isleña Airlines flies to the Bay Islands every day but Sunday from Tegucigalpa, San Pedro Sula and La Ceiba to Guanaja. From Miami: American Airlines, % (800) 433-7300, has daily flights to San Pedro Sula, Honduras. From Houston: Continental Airlines to San Pedro Sula with a stop in Tegucigalpa. Direct flights to Roatan from Miami, Houston and New Orleans are provided by TACA weekly. Water taxis are sent by the island resorts to pick you up.

Precautions: Register your cameras and electronic gear with customs before visiting Honduras. Do not bring drugs, plants or flowers into or out of the country.

Language: English on the Bay Islands, Spanish on mainland Honduras.

Documents: A passport, visa, and onward ticket is required to enter Honduras.

Departure tax: US $15-$20 depending on the exchange rate.

Health: Vaccinations are not required. Check with your own doctor for health precautions. On the islands, drinking water comes from mountain wells. Ask about the water before drinking. Pack a diver’s first- aid kit for sea stings and bug bites. Buy all your sundries and cosmetics before you leave home.

Currency: The lempira (L). L 9.22=US $1.

Climate: Hot and humid. March and April are the hottest months. Rain clouds crop up most afternoons during summer and fall. Coolest months are January and February. Water temperature averages 80° F year-round.

Clothing: Shorts and T-shirts, jeans and sneakers. Long-sleeve shirts and long pants are good for mountain hikes and protection from bugs or sunburn. Snorkelers should wear protective clothing for the hot sun. Divers will find a lycra suit comfortable for deep wall dives.

Electricity: Most resorts have 110 volts, but some have 220. Carry an adaptor to be sure.